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"fashion"

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found drawings



sketches like these blue ballpoint line drawings pop up every time I clean off my desk...I don't know what to do with them except stick them in the filing cabinet, so I am daydreaming of my future studio where there purpose of the space is to house things like random inspiration notes and sketches rather than feeling encumbered by them. At least digitally they can't collect dust.

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practicing short hand

It would be a really valuable skill for me, so I thought I'd give it a try listening to a quick round of interviews asking the pertinent question: "What do you look for in a young designer to identify a great designer of tomorrow?"

Here are some of the answers, in broken English, translated back from my chicken scratch short hand.

"faith in your own talent, love for the product, and love for your customer."
"A great designer of tomorrow has to have a vision and brilliant ideas."
"A strong design radiates authenticity
"Strong design knowledge of the past, feel for today, and vision for the future."
"Bravery that comes from love of fashion. Love of fun helps as well."
"Successful designers of tomorrow offer personal vision of beauty __ and individuality___seduce with sustainable fabrics___alluring___and subtle__of cut and color- harmony of cut and color should be a concern of any young designer___sense of fabrics that is where is all begins."
"At a time when any blogger can comment on fashion, designers have to be stronger than ever to realize their vision. The danger of being overwhelmed by the moment can be devastating for creativity."
"Successful designers of tomorrow understand design is about solving problems, in sustainability and efficient way___creative in use of texture, color, creative ceo of one's own brand."
"Young designers ___belief in self and vision- strong - stubborn ___because of flood of stimulation, information and divergent demands pouring in from all sides will constantly tempt you to be all things to all people."
"Skill and craftsmanship are as important as assertiveness and vision to successful designers."

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painting process

From start to finish 

the idea is a photographic documentation of the process of a painting from start to finish to then be displayed, sequentially, in limited edition prints along with the finished painting at the end of the series. 
(this ended up being painted over months later, but it was a good trial run)








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Lulu Kennedy

It is a really nice reminder that there are forces out there getting people onto the next phase of their work which are off of the traditional path.
Lulu Kennedy: fashion's fairy godmother - Telegraph

Kennedy is a great example of someone who saw an opportunity to GIVE opportunity to others whom she believed in. If that isn't a satisfying line of work, I don't know what is.


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Corrine Day

Corrine Day is known for transforming the editorial fashion industry with her raw and natural approach to fashion phtography. With Kate Moss as the perfect imperfect muse, she was able to achieve a reality that was a close to real as any set can produce. But that was not always what people wanted- reality can be sad, as she said, and sometimes people just want fantasy. Turning her career down a documentary road she had that freedom. But in the spirit of grunge and unconventional transitions in the 90s in particular, I think it is appropriate to give a quick nod to Day. Here are some of her fashion contributions, recent and old.


Images from Chinese Vogue November 2008- here for their outdoor amazing chic use of tall grass and century old wooden shackled house
Two early shots from various spreads, for their whimsy

These from British Vogue October 2003- Geoff Dyer Haute Couture prep, for the rawness of the 'behind the scenes'
Since her death in 2010, several blogs, newspapers, and other publications paid homage to her life and career. Here are a couple that I wanted to share:
Really awesome selection of images on Focus on to Film Blog
Corrine Day Obituary in the telegraph

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grunge expansion

A few more images I was moved to do a quick search for
My sister once described me as 'more grungy' in comparison to her when describing our styles to someone. my response was a quick "I am not grungy." I didn't really know what it meant at the time except I had the idea it meant dirty. And since I regularly washed my hair and my jeans, I figured it couldn't be true. Not that those things are less true now (maybe a little less true) but at least I get what she was saying now. I have very few memories from when I was younger...so I'm glad that is one of them.
there is credit due to the musicians and fans who created the movement:
 Veronica Webb in Stephen Sprouse FW 1985 via corbis
 On the Street in Seatle 1993 by Mauro Carraro via corbis
Kurt Cobain in Studio Image via eyeball.fm

And there is credit due to the designer who was able to channel and market it to a high end consumer. Did they know they were wearing clothes inspired by drug addicted, chain and ripped jean wearing, long haired dudes who screamed into microphones and smashed guitars in front of audiences of angst-y young people who felt these musicians were the only people who could possibly understand what they were going through?
Not when it has a Perry Ellis label in it (thank you young Marc Jacobs)




 Perry Ellis spring 1993 backstage via corbis

+ article on the 'rules of grunge'

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Grunge Heroes

At the Rock en Seine music festival Renaud Montfourny was the honored photographer, with a photo expo combining aerials of dead animals in city streets, and, of course, portraits of Rock Stars. The man, who also founded the french magazine Inrockuptables (the French Rolling Stone), has an eye for the greats and how to create an image of them as real people, full on with in their iconic attitudes.
Hung up next to each other:
These are my two grunge heroes-




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Hussein Chalayan in Paris

This really fantastic exhibit was all about technology and exploiting the possible overlaps within Chalayan's vision of fashion. A brilliant designer who could have chosen any medium, he often incorporates those diverse design sensibilities in his runway instillations and video presentations. Also in his garments, as they super conceptual extreme is sculptural and not at all conventional clothing. What makes it distinctly about fashion is the role that the body and identity play in his creative commentary. By using the body as a foundation for his creations, there is an implied set of ideas that are connect to the idea of the body and the self. But in the context of his very thoughtful concepts he is able to send a different message each season. Part of that is thanks to the experimentation with new materials and processes which are often of a scientific or technologocal nature. Even his more rustic, raw, hand-made references come together in the form of some kind of modern hybrid, and never exist solely on ideas of the past.

this image is from my favorite Chalayan collection (one I cited in my first project design at SCAD) and the image if from the museum's website
Here is my coverage for TheFashionList

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Tim Walker

Fantastical worlds captured in one frame- so believable your mind sees beyond the picture plane...real people transformed into fictional characters with supernatural qualities and eccentric mannerisms- they must actually exist in their strange world...colors that seem to be pulled out from the ground where he wishes them to be- like his camera interprets the visions of his mind's eye
Here are some recent editorial shots to demonstrate that introduction...






Take a look at his website there's much more to see
+ he works in collage sometimes as well- which I love because it is like he continues building onto these fabricated worlds with elements of our own world that still somehow enhance the fantasy.

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Old Research

I was recently going through some old research files. Every once in a while a folder goes unorganized for quite a while. As in these cases, I don't really remember any more where I got the images or what I was looking for when I found them. Here are some that I held on to because I find they still have some kind of relevance...
Robert Frank
Woman dressed as angel, circa 1918 via corbis

Edward Curtis
The Angel of Mons Valse Score Cover by Paul Paree, 1914
Golden Eagle Wing by Niall Benvie circa 1990
From Numéro 82 by Camilla Akrans
 
an editorial page that I got from the much missed website (HFGL)
Pati Smith by Lynn Goldsmith 1977 via corbis
unknown

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Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

I am sadly going to miss this exhibit. Part of the surrounding enticement is due to the too-early death of the designer, making the garments on display like relics of his life.

Because I can't be there, I was so thrilled to find that the MET had put together this site with images, videos, a guide through each themed room, and beautiful photographs.
The best thing short of going myself. It is rare to find so much information shared surrounding an exhibit, ("you have to visit if you want to see...!") But in this case the digital element makes a really great complement (I imagine) to the actual visit. It is, however, clear from the videos and images that the richness of the spaces and textures and garments themselves just aren't done justice via digital reproductions.
But about the exhibit: I have admired Alexander McQueen (a fellow Lee) for seemingly forever. But I was never in the McQueen fan club. I also took his collections for granted. I don't think I really ever looked at his collections in the big picture sense. I saw the spectacle and appreciated his theatrics- saying that he was doing things differently. An industry that has so many codes of conduct and 'how tos' needs people who break some of those rules- boldly; no toe-dipping in the water.
The themes of nature, the future, his heritage, mysticism, goth, and current social climates are manifest in his collections. The literal interpretations might be considered costume-y if it weren't for the refined color palette, and masterful and tasteful couture approach. His design hand is was so refined; maybe as result of the time he spent learning the skills of tailoring on Saville Row.
Lastly, I have only recently awakened in myself an interest in and love for the idea of the future. While I have lived most of my life lamenting the past, dreaming of living in an America of pre-western expansion: "Oh give me a home, where the buffalo roam" kind of nostalgia. This has revealed itself as a limiting mindset, where little can be expanded upon without getting into modern territory. And those same sources of inspiration I have seen exploding as trends all up and down the apparel market. Which puts into question every sense of identity and purpose. It is an emotional thing, creating.
And that is exactly what McQueen used to his advantage. For people who can't escape the power of strong emotions- emotions that can sometimes feel debilitating- to be able to channel them, and fabricate them, is one way of learning to control them- or at least make them work for you.

And so I'll live vicariously through everyone who gets to go see and visit the exhibit this closing weekend or who has visited it over the past months.
enjoy and appreciate
And for those of you like me who can't visit: here is a preview of the beautiful images the website shares


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